Engine Refresh How-To, Step Two: Cleaning and Prep

By far the toughest job in your engine recondition project will the endless cleaning that you’ll have to do. This job can be made simpler though by making what I like to call "baths," containers of chemicals that you can soak your dirty parts in to break up the grime. My baths usually consist of degreaser, cheap fuel injector cleaner, a can of Seafoam and enough water to cover the parts. Note: whatever chemicals you use, read the the warning labels carefully, because combining certain cleaners can produce toxic or even lethal fumes. Always use adequate ventilation—work outside if at all possible.

Some scrubbing will be required to clean the parts, but it will take way less time an effort after they’ve soaked overnight.

Once the parts are clean of dirt and debris, it’s time to tackle the painted parts. The parts on the Buick’s engine had endured several re-coats over the years, so I had several layers of paint to remove and required paint stripper. Once brushed on, it only took several minutes to remove the now 38-year-old paint. Other good methods of removing paint include using a die grinder, a wire wheel, sand paper, or even a pressure washer. Continued…

Once the paint is off, you can take a good look at the condition of the metal you’re working with. Total rust removal is key when it comes to doing this job right, because any rust left behind can ruin all your hard work if it decides to start spreading again. In the case of the Buick’s fender liners, there was some rust under the paint but no rot, so I was able to remove all of it with a die grinder (see below). Rust can be removed by all the same methods as paint with the exception of the pressure washer.

At this point, you should be down to bare metal and ready to prime. There’s a saying that goes, "your paint job is only as good as your prep": it’s essential to tape off areas to avoid overspray, and to clean the metal very thoroughly before you prime. The way that I tape an area off is to first run just tape along all the edges of the item I’m about to paint (see below). From there, I take newspaper and run tape down the length of it, and then attach that tape to the strip I’ve already put down. This ensures a good seal around the area. I also overlap each piece of paper as I work my way around. Don’t forget to cover your car with sheets to prevent any overspray from getting on your paint or glass. Again, good ventilation is really important: be sure to place a box fan on the floor to blow the fumes away.

The last step I take before the primer leaves the can is to preheat it in warm water (in temps 70 or below). This heats the propellant and makes the primer flow better out of the can and adhere more thoroughly to the metal (you can heat up the parts a bit, too). While the can is soaking I take that time to prep the metal with mineral spirits or brake cleaner. I typically douse a folded paper towel and work my way across the whole area to remove any residue or debris. I typically choose brake cleaner because of its extremely fast drying time and ability to leave no residue.

Taking your time here can be the difference between a good paint job and one that’s got more ripples and fish eyes in it than the ocean. In tomorrow’s post, I’ll give you some tips on how to make paint out of a can look like paint out of a gun!