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	<title>Comments on: Engine Refresh How-To, Step Two: Cleaning and Prep</title>
	<atom:link href="http://blog.cardomain.com/2008/04/01/engine-refresh/feed/" rel="self" type="application/rss+xml" />
	<link>http://blog.cardomain.com/2008/04/01/engine-refresh/</link>
	<description>CarDomain Blog - Automotive news &#38; crazy member rides from the CarDomain Community</description>
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		<title>By: Pressure Washer</title>
		<link>http://blog.cardomain.com/2008/04/01/engine-refresh/#comment-34739</link>
		<dc:creator>Pressure Washer</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 08 Apr 2008 21:09:19 +0000</pubDate>
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        &lt;p&gt;A pressure washer with a sandblasting attachment would work great in this case.  The nice thing about this is that it helps contain your desbris within the work area by drawing it down the surface you are cleaning.  Traditional sandblasting will throw matter into the air.&lt;br /&gt;
I swear by this product.&lt;/p&gt;
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<p>A pressure washer with a sandblasting attachment would work great in this case.  The nice thing about this is that it helps contain your desbris within the work area by drawing it down the surface you are cleaning.  Traditional sandblasting will throw matter into the air.<br />
I swear by this product.</p>
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		<title>By: Highspeedhijinks</title>
		<link>http://blog.cardomain.com/2008/04/01/engine-refresh/#comment-34741</link>
		<dc:creator>Highspeedhijinks</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 03 Apr 2008 02:25:22 +0000</pubDate>
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        &lt;p&gt;Stewarts right, POR-15 is what I used to cover the battery tray and what I used on my Caprice fender liners due to the fact that there proned to rotting out.&lt;/p&gt;
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<p>Stewarts right, POR-15 is what I used to cover the battery tray and what I used on my Caprice fender liners due to the fact that there proned to rotting out.</p>
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		<title>By: Stewart</title>
		<link>http://blog.cardomain.com/2008/04/01/engine-refresh/#comment-34743</link>
		<dc:creator>Stewart</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 02 Apr 2008 23:49:46 +0000</pubDate>
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        &lt;p&gt;POR-15 actually works.&lt;/p&gt;
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<p>POR-15 actually works.</p>
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		<title>By: GTwildfire</title>
		<link>http://blog.cardomain.com/2008/04/01/engine-refresh/#comment-34746</link>
		<dc:creator>GTwildfire</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 02 Apr 2008 14:41:27 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://cardomain.wordpress.com/2008/04/01/engine-refresh#comment-34746</guid>
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        &lt;p&gt;Yeah, that rust converter stuff came out in the late &#039;70s or early &#039;80s. Been around forever. Have yet to see it actually work.&lt;/p&gt;
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<p>Yeah, that rust converter stuff came out in the late &#8217;70s or early &#8217;80s. Been around forever. Have yet to see it actually work.</p>
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		<title>By: SuzyBruisy</title>
		<link>http://blog.cardomain.com/2008/04/01/engine-refresh/#comment-34754</link>
		<dc:creator>SuzyBruisy</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 02 Apr 2008 11:52:18 +0000</pubDate>
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        &lt;p&gt;Very cool advice! I heat up the cans too, though usually in the sun or atop my furnace (stupid, since they could theoretically explode!). Good call on the thorough rust removal prior to paint; in addition to these mechanical/abrasive means of de-rusting, I&#039;ve also experimented a lot with chemical rust strippers and converters, which can be good because they chase the rust right down into the pores of the metal where it can otherwise stay festering. Naval Jelly is an awesome product, though it often takes a few overnight applications to get a badly rusted part completely bare. That spray-on &quot;rust coverter&quot; that claims to turn rust into a black inert powder is completely bogus. The kind of metal you&#039;re working with is also a big factor; cast iron parts are the worst for rust removal, since the rust is basically integral to their very structure. Iron oxide never sleeps!&lt;/p&gt;
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<p>Very cool advice! I heat up the cans too, though usually in the sun or atop my furnace (stupid, since they could theoretically explode!). Good call on the thorough rust removal prior to paint; in addition to these mechanical/abrasive means of de-rusting, I&#8217;ve also experimented a lot with chemical rust strippers and converters, which can be good because they chase the rust right down into the pores of the metal where it can otherwise stay festering. Naval Jelly is an awesome product, though it often takes a few overnight applications to get a badly rusted part completely bare. That spray-on &#8220;rust coverter&#8221; that claims to turn rust into a black inert powder is completely bogus. The kind of metal you&#8217;re working with is also a big factor; cast iron parts are the worst for rust removal, since the rust is basically integral to their very structure. Iron oxide never sleeps!</p>
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		<title>By: GTwildfire</title>
		<link>http://blog.cardomain.com/2008/04/01/engine-refresh/#comment-34760</link>
		<dc:creator>GTwildfire</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 02 Apr 2008 09:22:12 +0000</pubDate>
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        &lt;p&gt;This topic is one of the most applicable, relating to cardomain members. Most of us spend time under the hoods of our rides, or should. Thanks, HSHJ for posting this series, it&#039;s very cool to see the progress and the info is great.&lt;br /&gt;
-&lt;br /&gt;
While my Firebird has already been taken care of, some beautification and cleanup is needed. I found a new toy that&#039;s gonna help me clean up some of the oxydization that forms on aluminum and other metal parts...&lt;br /&gt;
-&lt;br /&gt;
I bought a DuraBuilt high speed rotary tool set (similar to Dremel, well made, $30 at WalMart). What makes this tool absolutely awesome is a 30&quot; flex extension. I&#039;ll be using rotary brush heads. I expect to reach just about anything I can see. Aside from that, the usual de-greaser, a little paint and whatever to shine things up and treat plastic/rubber to finish things up.&lt;/p&gt;
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<p>This topic is one of the most applicable, relating to cardomain members. Most of us spend time under the hoods of our rides, or should. Thanks, HSHJ for posting this series, it&#8217;s very cool to see the progress and the info is great.<br />
-<br />
While my Firebird has already been taken care of, some beautification and cleanup is needed. I found a new toy that&#8217;s gonna help me clean up some of the oxydization that forms on aluminum and other metal parts&#8230;<br />
-<br />
I bought a DuraBuilt high speed rotary tool set (similar to Dremel, well made, $30 at WalMart). What makes this tool absolutely awesome is a 30&#8243; flex extension. I&#8217;ll be using rotary brush heads. I expect to reach just about anything I can see. Aside from that, the usual de-greaser, a little paint and whatever to shine things up and treat plastic/rubber to finish things up.</p>
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		<title>By: Stewart</title>
		<link>http://blog.cardomain.com/2008/04/01/engine-refresh/#comment-34765</link>
		<dc:creator>Stewart</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 02 Apr 2008 07:21:23 +0000</pubDate>
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        &lt;p&gt;Looking good!&lt;br /&gt;
.&lt;br /&gt;
I like your idea of warming up the spray cans in warm water first, &lt;br /&gt;
for temps below 70.&lt;br /&gt;
.&lt;br /&gt;
Can&#039;t wait to see the next step!&lt;br /&gt;
.&lt;br /&gt;
Stewart&lt;/p&gt;
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<p>Looking good!<br />
.<br />
I like your idea of warming up the spray cans in warm water first, <br />
for temps below 70.<br />
.<br />
Can&#8217;t wait to see the next step!<br />
.<br />
Stewart</p>
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