Engine Refresh, Step Three: Time To Throw Paint

In the last post, I reminded you that good prep work is a big factor in a good paint job. With your surfaces ready to prime, here’s a few timely tips for working with spray cans. I always preheat my cans with warm water for several minutes (especially if it’s colder than 70 degrees out) and shake them thoughly for at least 30 seconds. The first spray out of a can usually contains more propellant than paint, so hitting a piece of cardboard first makes sure that nothing by paint comes out when you’re ready. Primer is very forgiving, but for the most even application, it’s a good idea to spray like a typewriter: start at one end of the object you’re painting and spray in one fluid motion than the other end. Let off the spray nozzle, return to the same side you started on, and repeat. Once you’ve coated the piece from that direction, allow the primer to tack up for a minute and then resume spraying, this time from the opposite side. Go back and repeat these steps untill you think the piece is throughly coated. Spraying in short bursts like this instead of holding the nozzle down on the can allows for more paint than propellant to leave the can. If you just held the nozzle down and sprayed wildly, there’d be half a can of paint left with no propellant to push it out.

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With the piece now primed, it’s time to move on to painting. Allow the primer at least a half hour to dry before moving onto paint. Start this process the same way you did the primer: by soaking and shaking the cans. Make sure there’s no debris, and don’t touch the primed parts with your oily hands. Use the same typewriter method that you used to spray primer, a series of long sweeping strokes from first one side, then the other. Once you have a good base coat, allow the paint to tack up again for 5 to 10 minutes and follow that up with your final heavy coat (but not too heavy, as this can lead to runs). If you do get a run, you’ll have to wait until the paint is totally dry before correcting it.

Correcting mistakes is an inevitable part of the process. I had to fix flaws several times over the course of reconditioning the Buick. If you get a run, allow it to dry completely—and remember that a drip will take longer to dry than paint that’s lying flat. Then work the area with some fine sandpaper, taking off just enough to smooth the run, while being careful not to take it down to bare metal. Once it’s smooth, take a damp cloth to wipe away the dust. Once dry, you can simply start with a heavier coat and blend in the area to the rest of the panel you’re working on.

For those who want to use clear coat, now is the time. Clear is best applied when the paint is either very wet or completely dry. I prefer to use it when the item is freshly painted because it creates a smoother finish. Allowing a day or two for the paint to dry will ensure that you can touch the pieces without leaving fingerprints or scratches. Take the time now to admire your work, because it’s the shinniest the paint will ever look. Tomorrow, I’ll walk you through the beginnings of reassembly with hoses and wiring.