Sound Deadening Removal

Atomicalex

When the brown Rabbit arrived, one of the first things I did was pull the interior. Two reasons: it was trashed, and it smelled bad. The source of the smell was a bottle of Power Service Diesel anti-gel additive that had overturned under the driver’s seat. The law of unintended consequences applied in my favor – it had soaked into the asphalt-based sound deadening material (that weighs about 20 pounds!) and softened it sufficiently that I was able to scrape it off. I had a friend record the event as it seemed too good to be true. I’ll be experimenting with the other side of the car to see how to replicate this excellent mess and will report back when I figure it out. Meanwhile, check the video.

Permalink:

Posted at 1:44 am in Katherine, Rabbit, Restoration, VW

Comments

79cord
Dec 7, 2009 at 7:58 pm

I found kerosene also softens the sound-deadener.

TheMelonedOne
Dec 6, 2009 at 9:06 am

I’LL BET THAT IS 500% HARDER THAN IT WAS TO INSTALL IT. THAT SHIT BELONGS ON HOUSE ROOFS UNDER THE SHINGLES.

OldsCruiser
Dec 3, 2009 at 6:35 am

” I had a friend record the event as it seemed too good to be true. I’ll be experimenting with the other side of the car to see how to replicate this excellent mess.”

Well, I assume by the statement above, that you are concerned about the removal of the sound deadening on the rest of the vehicle. Maffew’s ideal is a good one, but I would also assume that any petroleum based remover would work as well. The sound deadening material that is in your vehicle must be a import thing, because all my rides, (GM american) never used this stuff. They have all used the thick compressed Jute padding that is typical in american cars. In all my rides, I’ve had to redo the carpets and floorboards due to, moister, rust, or just smelly carpet. The process that I use, is first to lightly scuff the floorboard with a wire bristle rotary on the end of my drill, and then clean up the floor and ready it for a application or two of Por -15 ( http://www.por15.com/ ) that encapsulates and stops any rust issues. ( really good stuff! ) After a day or 2 of drying, I then add my heat and sound deadening material. Most people use the expensive dynomat. Don’t waist you money on that stuff. I use a 60 mil EPDM from a local roofing supply company. It’s the same rubber stuff you see on flat roofs with rocks on top or it. It’s about $50 for 10X10 piece. I lay that out how I want it on the floorboard. You can use adhesive if you like, but I find it not necessary and more cost effective.
After that, you can put in your jute padding and new carpet. I’ve had no issues with this process over the years, and it works great. Hope this helps. I have pictures as well, if you are interested in the process. just send me a note.

Maffew
Dec 3, 2009 at 5:10 am

Dry ice is the solution. GO buy some (publix sells it), put it on top of the sound deadening material, let it evaporate. Once it evaporates, the Sound Deadening material is so cold, you can break it with a claw hammer, and chip it away with a putty knife quite easily. It worked like a champ on my 280Z I restored a few years back.